The André Walker system classifies hair into Types 1 to 4, each with subtypes A, B, and C. Understanding your type is the foundation — it's only the beginning.
Curl type is just the starting point.
Porosity, density, strand thickness, scalp condition and climate all shape what your hair actually needs. Two people with 3B curls may need completely different products. Curlita accounts for all of it.
No curl pattern. High shine, oil-prone.
Type 1 hair grows straight from the follicle with no natural wave or curl. The round follicle shape produces a hair shaft that lies flat, reflecting light evenly — which gives it that characteristic shine. The downside: sebum travels easily down the straight shaft, making it prone to oiliness at the root and limpness over time.
Very fine, limp, difficult to curl. Extremely prone to oiliness. Minimal volume.
Porosity
Low
Common in
East Asia · Northern Europe · South Asia
Hair loves
Volumising shampoo, Lightweight sprays, Dry shampoo
Has some body and movement at the ends. Most common straight type. Holds blowouts well.
Porosity
Low–Medium
Common in
Europe · East Asia · North America
Hair loves
Smoothing conditioners, Heat protectants, Light leave-ins
Thick, resistant to styling, frizzy in humidity. Has the most body of straight types.
Porosity
Low–Medium
Common in
Europe · Middle East · Latin America
Hair loves
Anti-frizz serums, Weekly masks, Smoothing treatments
S-pattern waves. Versatile but frizz-prone.
Type 2 hair sits between straight and curly — it has an S-shaped wave pattern that forms from mid-length to ends. The follicle is slightly oval, creating a gentle bend as the hair grows. Wavy hair is uniquely dual-natured: it can be styled to look straight or encouraged to curl. Its main challenges are frizz, going flat at the root, and product build-up.
Fine, barely-there waves. Tends to fall flat without encouragement. The most straight-passing wavy type.
Porosity
Low–Medium
Common in
Mediterranean · Latin America · South Asia
Hair loves
Sea salt spray, Curl mousse, Diffusing
More pronounced S-pattern from root. Medium thickness. Can be coaxed into ringlets.
Porosity
Medium
Common in
Brazil · Mediterranean · Mixed heritage
Hair loves
Leave-in conditioner, Curl cream, Scrunch technique
Thick, deep S-waves that border on curly. High frizz potential. The most curl-adjacent wavy type.
Porosity
Medium
Common in
Brazil · Caribbean · West Africa · Southern Europe
Hair loves
Protein treatments, Curl creams, Microfibre towel
Defined ringlets. Moisture is everything.
Type 3 hair has a definite S or spiral pattern. The oval-to-flat follicle shape creates a helical curl that varies from loose spirals to tight corkscrews. Type 3 curls have the most visual variety of any type — same curl category, yet 3A and 3C look completely different. They need consistent moisture, gentle handling, and protection from humidity.
Large, bouncy ringlets with a wide circumference — roughly the size of sidewalk chalk. Defined but prone to frizz.
Porosity
Medium
Common in
Brazil · Caribbean · West Africa · Biracial
Hair loves
Curl cream, Leave-in, Glycerin products
Medium-sized spiral curls with a springy, voluminous texture. High frizz potential. Shrinkage ~30%.
Porosity
Medium–High
Common in
Caribbean · West Africa · Brazil
Hair loves
Shea creams, Deep conditioning, Denman brush
Very tight corkscrew curls, densely packed. Often described as 'pencil curls'. Prone to dryness.
Porosity
Medium–High
Common in
West Africa · Caribbean · East Africa · Diaspora
Hair loves
Rich creams, Hot oil treatments, Sealing oils
Kinky, coiled, or zigzag. The most fragile, the most magical.
Type 4 hair, also called coily, kinky, or afro-textured, grows in a tight coil or zigzag pattern from an almost flat follicle. It's the most fragile hair type because the bends and angles of the curl are stress points susceptible to breakage. But it's also the most versatile: it can be worn in its natural coil, stretched, twisted, loc'd, braided, or blown out. Type 4 hair has the greatest cultural richness and historical significance globally.
S-pattern coils, defined and springy. The most defined of the coily types. Shrinkage up to 60%.
Porosity
High
Common in
West Africa · East Africa · Caribbean · Diaspora
Hair loves
Castor oil, Curl activators, Steam treatments
Z/angular pattern instead of S. Dense, fragile, high shrinkage. Responds brilliantly to protective styling.
Porosity
High
Common in
West & Central Africa · African diaspora globally
Hair loves
Heavy butters, Glycerin mixes, Protective styles
The most tightly coiled type with minimal definition. Up to 75% shrinkage. The most moisture-dependent type.
Porosity
High
Common in
West & Central Africa · East Africa · African diaspora
Hair loves
Water + shea butter, Aloe vera, Hot oil treatments
Know your type?
Curl type alone doesn't tell the full story. Take the Curlita quiz to factor in porosity, scalp, goals and climate.
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